Timelords: Giles Ellis

Founder of Schofield watches

If you’re going to set yourself a challenge, you may as well make sure it’s a big one. At least, that seems to be the approach of Giles Ellis, founder of the Schofield watch company. Start a new watch brand in the midst of this generation’s biggest recession? Check. Singlehandedly try to revive Britain to its former watchmaking glory? Check. Push the limits of design with the use of unusual colours and materials? Check. We fire some questions Giles’ way to see what possessed him to attempt such a thing.

Q. Can you recall the spark of inspiration that started your journey with Schofield watches?

I had for a fleeting moment an obsession with Bell & Ross. All my research into the brand brought me close to buying one. Then I stopped myself with the idea that I could buy a movement and build a case around it.

Q. The watch industry is an old and deep-rooted one; from where do you draw your confidence to take it on with Schofield?

It was never my intention to take it on; the one watch I was building was supposed to end there. But as I obsessed over the details—I could not settle on off-the-shelf hands or dials—I became beholden to minimum orders. Thus I was left with 99 watches to sell! So you could say the manufacture was forced, however it did take four years to bring the Signalman to market. This was due to ensuring the business was as solid as the watches. It had to stand side by side with any other manufacturer in the world—that was my aim.

Q. Do you primarily envision Schofield as a watchmaker or a gentleman’s luxury brand? Do you think there are downsides to either perception? How do you manage that brand image as a recent newcomer to the scene?

That’s a good question and one that we are conscious of. I want Schofield to be a watchmaking brand, which is why we limit the accessories. Believe me, there are so many others that we could do, but I choose not to so not to erode our credibility as watchmakers. We felt we could do the fountain pen last year because alongside it we launched three varieties of Beater watch. This gave us balance. There are no new Schofield accessories due for release, except straps.

Q. How far do you feel you need to push your design from the norm (think Rolex) to stand out as a brand? How far is too far?

There is no too far because somebody will always jump in however ghastly the piece. But once you cross the line, it’s hard to keep your designs elegant. For us, losing elegance would be a crime against design.

Q. What would you say is Schofield’s biggest draw in tempting customers away from spending their money on the usual fare?

Our customers are not tempted away—they have already made that decision. They have decided that they want something that people are intrigued about, something that tells a story and has a lot to say. Expensive watches show the owners to have money; our watches lift the chests of their owners because they show taste. That is a huge thrill for me.

Q. What was the tipping point for you when you realised that Schofield was going to be successful as a company? Can you recall any point where it seemed a dream too far?

That point was when James Stacy—an excellent watch journalist and photographer—got all the little things I had put into the Signalman design, details I had not mentioned before as they seemed too esoteric and would perhaps show me up as having OCD. He pointed out the nuances of design to a wider audience that responded so positively that I knew if one guy gets it, others will.

Q. What are these details you refer to?

Details like the way the chamfered case meets the compound curve of the lug section; the mathematics I used to calculate proportion; the way the design is built around highlights so that various elements catch the light in interesting ways. The crystal is set just below the lip of the bezel, creating a whole new surface to catch the light, for example. Plus details like setting the GMT pusher into the lug and rebating the straps into the case, thus reducing skin triangles. The list goes on and on. It seemed that others saw these elements of design without being prompted. This is when I knew others would want to own Schofield watches.

Q. The future: do you plan to play it safe and produce more of the same, or do you have ideas you want to explore? Does having a loyal fan following help loosen creative binds?

There are many ideas and prototypes flying around Schofield, but few make it to the fore. We constantly explore new—and old—materials, movements, finishes, shapes etcetera, but Schofield as a brand is concerned with the minutiae, therefore a big change in style would wreck the work we have done. Which is basically a way of saying our stuff will, on the most part, look the same with subtle differences that I expect no one to spot!

Q. I suspect Schofield takes up plenty of your time, but in the rare moments you have away from the business, what do you like to do?

I box and BMX, both atrociously. I also like getting tattooed which I do well. It is the only time I do not think about Schofield because I am preoccupied with not breaking my teeth.

Q. Any other creative ideas you’d like to explore should you have the opportunity?

Two other projects on the go, both in the luxury sector. I can’t say any more . . .

Q. And lastly, what would be your advice for anyone thinking of starting their own watch brand (other than ‘stay off my turf, y’hear?’)?

Prepare to spend some money!