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Feature: Panerai delights with new launches at Watches & Wonders 2023

This year’s highly anticipated Watches & Wonders event is finally up and running. We’ve taken a look at Panerai's offerings and selected three of our favourite releases from the brand.

Radiomir California PAM01349

California dials and Panerai have a long history together, with some of the rarest and most sought-after vintage models featuring this distinctive combination of bold Arabic and Roman numerals. But Panerai has really excelled itself with this handsome deep-green version in recycled e-steel, whose muted tones give it a delightfully weathered aesthetic. If you like the pared-down look of early Radiomir models but want to stand out with a dial colour that Panerai seldom uses, this could be the watch for you.

At 45mm, its case is fairly typical for a Radiomir and comes with the vintage-looking wire lugs which, unlike the original ones that were soldered on, are attached to the case by screws for easy strap changes.

Speaking of straps, it’s paired with one in brown calf leather that complements the deep green dial and is inscribed with the words “G. Panerai e Figlio”, which featured on the sign of the original Panerai workshop in Florence. This model runs on the manual-wind P.5000 movement whose twin spring barrels provide a huge power reserve of eight days (or 192 hours).

Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech PAM1026

Panerai is renowned for its large cases and rugged appeal so this 40mm Radiomir makes a welcome change, especially to those with smaller wrists. Sitting at the dressier end of Panerai’s catalogue, this Radiomir comes with a striking gold case made of Panerai’s own Goldtech—a combination of gold, platinum and copper—as well as a stunning white sun-brushed dial and a dark brown alligator strap.

The Quaranta is a contemporary interpretation of Panerai’s first ever watch and it brings to life the look of legendary navy divers from the 1940s, meaning it’ll appeal to fans of the brand’s rich nautical history, as well as lovers of contemporary design—what’s not to love?

Powering this piece is the in-house P.900 calibre, a next-generation automatic movement. At 4.2mm thick, it’s the first of its size from Panerai to combine the date, a three-day power reserve and 30 metres of water resistance.

All in all, this is an interesting and elegant release from a watchmaker that started out by creating purpose-built timepieces for the Italian Navy.

We’re sure we’re not the only ones hoping that this is just the start of Panerai’s more glamourous ventures.

Radiomir Annual Calendar Experience Edition PAM01432

Panerai can finally count an annual calendar model in its ranks with the launch of the PAM01432, which runs on a new in-house movement by the brand, the automatic P.9010/AC caliber.

Limited to just 24 pieces, this beauty cased in Panerai Platinumtech features a sun-brushed burgundy gradient dial that displays the current month via a peripheral moving ring that rests alongside a small arrow at 3 o’clock. The day and date are displayed via the two apertures, also at 3 o’clock. There’s also a small-seconds subdial at 9 o’clock.

The gleaming platinum 45mm case is twinned with a black hand-dyed alligator strap to complete a breathtakingly stylish look and the power reserve is a respectable three days.

Those who purchase this watch will also get an invite to an extraordinary immersive tour around Rome, which aims to capture the essence of the brand through events that combine artisanal know-how, culture and visits to historical sites.

Panerai has also released an equally impressive sister version of this watch in rose gold with a blue dial, reference PAM01363, which isn’t a limited edition.

However both versions are available in Panerai boutiques only.

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