Patek Philippe Grand Complications Chronograph 5971P
Diamonds—enduring gems of exquisite refinement, or gaudy nuggets of overkill? The watch world might be split in opinion about these divisive little rocks, but as far as I’m concerned, any attempt to lump a watch by Patek Philippe into the ‘gaudy pile’ is a bit of a stretch. If there’s one brand that can make diamonds on a watch work, it’s this Swiss powerhouse. Case in point? The Grand Complications Chronograph 5971P.
Patek Philippe has proven its watchmaking clout time and time again. It’s a brand famed for its impressive range of complications, and it stands tall in the very top ranks of elite watchmaking. So if it wants to show off every now and then with a bit of tastefully done ice, who am I to criticise?
And the diamond decoration of the 5971P really is exactly that—tasteful. A bezel of baguette cut jewels encircle the dark dial, creating the effect of a flowing halo of light. Even here, Patek Philippe is showing off its notable skill, not only as a watchmaker, but as a master jeweller. A lot goes into shaping, polishing and setting those diamonds—artisans need to be specifically trained and use specialised tools and techniques because of the difficulty working with the gem. Their value represents not just their rarity, but also the expertise needed to make them fit to adorn a watch.
There’s also a common misconception that diamonds suit women’s watches better than men’s, but there’s nothing remotely feminine about this timepiece. At 40mm in diameter, the 5971P is a weighty and satisfying companion for the wrist, with a case made of platinum on a strap of hand-stitched black leather.
Of course, a watch bearing the label ‘Grand Complications’ has got to live up to its name, and the 5971P most certainly does. The functionality of the watch’s chronograph is kept precise and accurate by a masterfully crafted column wheel, and the dial is given its dark intensity thanks to twelve coats of black lacquer, punctuated in all the right places by subdials in contrasting white.
Not to be outshone by its dazzling bezel, the calibre CHR 27-70 Q boasts a perpetual calendar. Developed in the late nineteenth century, this intricate complication records an immense amount of data. At the flick of your wrist, you’ve got indicators for the day, month, date—and even leap years. A silvery finish on the moonphase at 6 o’clock only adds to the shimmering aura created by the diamond-encrusted bezel.
Another nifty little facet of the watch’s perpetual calendar is that its calculation of leap years means it won’t need to be adjusted until the year 2100, when the Gregorian calendar will skip a leap day. It’s as close as you can come to calling a watch ‘timeless’, and diamonds in the bezel, well—they’re forever. If you would like to purchase this watch, please click here.
Watch Spec | Patek Philippe Grand Complications Chronograph 5971P
Case: Platinum set with diamonds Dimensions: 40mm Crystal: Synthetic sapphire Water Resistance: N/A Movement: CHR 27-70 Q, manual Frequency: 18,000vph Power Reserve: 60 hours Strap: Leather Functions: Time, sub-seconds, perpetual calendar, chronograph, moonphase | Shop Now