Feature: 3 Watches That Are Cheaper Than You Think

Money no object, we'd all be wearing Patek Philippes, F. P. Journes and the like, but unfortunately that's not the case. With rising RRPs and a healthy collectors' market, the best watches continue to get further out of reach for many people. But there's hope yet, and we've got three of them right here.

Longines Legend Diver L3.674.4.50.0

Okay, so no-one really expects a Longines to be expensive, but the value of this Legend Diver becomes a lot more apparent once you get to know it. Longines is actually one of the best value brands on the market today from a heritage perspective, but somehow that's been lost somewhere along the way.

Longines Legend Diver L3.674.4.50.0

If you were to guess when Longines was founded, what would you say? Rolex was founded in 1905, Breitling in 1884, Omega in 1848, if that helps. So, Longines? 1832. The brand is over 180 years old.

And it's no slouch when it comes to importance. Before the quartz crisis, there were hundreds—if not thousands—of watch brands, and it took a lot to stand out. So, how about a record-breaking number of Universal Exhibition Grand Prix wins? Or a patented navigation system developed with US Navy officer Philip Van Horn Weems? How about the winged hourglass logo being the oldest registered still in use today?

Wait, there's more. Longines collaborated with the first man to fly across the Atlantic, Charles Lindbergh, to further improve the navigation watch. But the brand's real passion was chronographs, with the calibre 13.33Z the first used in a wristwatch. It and the follow-up calibre 13ZN have become extremely collectible, with startling prices paid for good examples.

Longines should be, by all accounts, a collector's dream, an unattainable brand forever destined to remain separated from most of us by the sheet of laminated glass in the jeweller's window. Lucky then, that it's not, because it means that watches like this Legend Diver cost only a little over £1,000. Considering vintage versions go for over ten times that, there's little else that offers per-pound heritage value like this does.

Originally from the SuperCompressor family of Piquerez-made watches—which also includes Jaeger-LeCoultre, IWC and Blancpain—the 1950s Longines dive watch doubled up on crowns to give control over the internal bezel alongside its time-setting mechanism. It's a striking look that feels very much of its time, and at this price, one that's hard to ignore.

Omega Chronostop 146.009

There's a simple rule-of-thumb formula to calculate the ballpark price of a watch, and it goes something like this: vintage multiplied by complications multiplied by big name equals expensive. If you want something affordable, you can pick one—not two, not three.

Omega Chronostop 146.009

But rules have exceptions, and this Omega Chronostop is one of them. A child of the 60s, the Chronostop gets overlooked in comparison to the mega divers and space-faring chronographs that dominated the period, falling in the shadows of the mighty achievements of Omega's flagships. But it's a legitimate vintage watch, with a complication, from one of history's most impressive watchmakers, and it'll set you back barely £1,000.

So, what's the catch? Well, like most vintage watches, it's quite small at 34mm across. Also, the chronograph calibre 865 and the later 920 aren't the most flexible, with the first press of the single pusher getting it started, the second, held down, allowing the time to be read, and a release to reset it. You only get a minute out of it unless you keep count manually. Oh, and there's no rotor weight, so you'll need to wind it yourself.

Be that as it may, it still ticks a lot of boxes. The 34mm width is small, but the height including the lugs is closer to 40mm, so it actually wears larger than you'd think. And who needs hours on a chronograph? This was meant for drivers—there was actually a version with the dial mounted sideways to be read whilst holding a steering wheel—and laps are timed in minutes and seconds, not hours. The Speedmaster Moonwatch is a manually wound watch, and that's one of the best things about it.

With almost 200,000 Chronostops made, there's plenty to choose from, and there's also a larger—and slightly more expensive—Seamaster version to consider as well. Either way, it's vintage, it's got a unique complication, it's from a big name, and—most importantly—it doesn't cost the Earth.

Breguet Type XX 3820TI/K2/TW9

Breguet or Breitling? I expect most people would prefer a watch from the company that gave us the tourbillon, regardless of how good the Breitling is. But, it's a silly comparison, isn't it? Breguet sits at the level of Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin; it's a completely different kettle of fish. Or is it?

Breguet Type XX 3820TI/K2/TW9

I know it's a little unfair to compare new with pre-owned, but it's such a staggering comparison that it's weirdly quite satisfying: a new Breitling Navitimer costs over £6,500. The Type XX? A smart buy will get you one in the region of £4,000. Actually, the new to used comparison isn't that unfair after all, because a Navitimer a few years old will still set you back around £5,000.

The Breguet Type XX's pilot watch styling has an unusual yet interesting blend of French flamboyance and stark practicality, based on a watch commissioned in the 1950s for the French Naval Aviation authorities. It's like a Sinn crossed with—well, a Breguet. Much of the original military Type 20 spec is kept, or remains very close: it's 39mm up from 38, still has a flyback function and a 12-hour turning bezel, and also glows in the dark a lot more than you'd expect.

The movement inside isn't Breguet's own, but it is a modified Lemania calibre 1350, which is desirable in its own right. If it's any consolation, Breguet actually owns Lemania—under the Swatch umbrella, of course. You can't see the movement, but it's an attractive one, and the finishing is good—although not to the same standard as Breguet's pricier alternatives.

This particular example comes with a carbon fibre dial and a titanium case, with a titanium bracelet to match. Granted, this may not be to everyone's taste, but on paper this spec makes it a very impressive purchase for just over £4,000. Happy with steel and leather, and you'll pay even less.

Even holding it, it's hard to believe that a Breguet with such style and heritage could be priced as it is. I mean, which word would you rather see when you go to check the time: Breitling, or Breguet?

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