Tudor Submariner 75090

The big news of Baselworld 2018, after thirteen years in the making, was the announcement of a stainless steel edition of the red-and-blue–bezelled Rolex GMT-Master II. Or, it would have been, had Tudor not undercut Rolex’s big story with a sneaky release of its own—the Black Bay GMT.

Overhear a conversation about vintage Rolex and chances are the word ‘investment’ isn’t far behind. It’s such common knowledge, even in the wider world, that a Rolex keeps its value, that despite it being somewhat of a half-truth, it’s become a mantra akin to legend. So, what’s really going on?

It doesn't require a huge knowledge of watches to know that vintage Submariners are a popular place to put money. The hardy little dive watch has served Rolex well since its inauguration in the early 1950s, building a loyal following that has almost become something of a cult. Collectors argue over the merest details: fonts, logos, and even manufacturing defects being among the points of contention that drive arguments - and prices - sky high.

A time-only, non-date Rolex Submariner in steel will cost you, today, £5,450. You don’t need me to tell you that this is a sizeable amount of money—enough to start wondering if it’s worth getting several cheaper watches instead. Is it possible to get a varied, three-watch collection of high-quality watches for the budget? Well, we’ve certainly had a go; here it is, a three-watch collection for less than the price of an entry level Submariner.