The humble dive watch is perhaps the most popular category of watch available today, tracing its origins back to the wondrous and dangerous adventures of Jacques Cousteau and others like him. Equipped to explore the last unknown frontier on Earth, it’s no wonder that the dive watch is as inspirational and appealing as it is. That, and you can wear it in the swimming pool. The question is, if you can’t quite stretch to the quintessential dive watch, Rolex’s Submariner, which dive watch should you get?

If you’ve clicked on this, there’s a high chance that you have at least a passing interest in watches and timekeeping, beyond simply being aware of the time and wanting to know what the time is exactly. There’s also a chance you’re the kind of person who wants to further their knowledge and understanding of watches and timekeeping, and that’s good, because that’s exactly what’s about to happen.

Walk into your nearest Omega boutique and chances are very high you’d be able to walk out again, wallet lighter, with a Speedmaster on your wrist. Not so Rolex’s Daytona, not unless you’re willing to pay the premium for precious metals. But is history about to change?

The hand wound chronograph is perhaps the foundation of a high-end watch company’s ability to demonstrate its prowess, a complex, intricate assembly unencumbered by a rotor weight hiding the mechanical wizardry going on inside. There’s no better palette upon which to exhibit the art of fine watchmaking—but can you tell the difference between one that’s more affordable and one that’s very expensive?