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News: Zenith El Primero Tourbillon Skeleton Intense Black

The last time Zenith ventured into the contemporary, under the lead of then-CEO Thierry Nataf, it caused a bit of a stir. Though the Defy series had its fans, its detractors were far greater in number, and so when the beloved brand was turned over to golden boy Jean-Frédéric Dufour, a collective sigh of relief was breathed. The brand returned to producing classic watches with superb movements, and all was well. That is until 2014, when Dufour was poached by Rolex.

Zenith El Primero Tourbillon Skeleton Intense Black

Aldo Magada was his replacement, and concern has arisen again in light of special editions with The Rolling Stones, Land Rover and Cohiba cigars. That makes this latest watch, the Zenith El Primero Tourbillon Skeleton Intense Black, something of a talking point.

Sister company TAG Heuer, also owned by parent LVMH, is no stranger to technical contemporary design, and this seems to have rubbed off onto the Intense Black. The mottled ceramic case—which is intensely black, of course—and skeletonised dial, plated in gunmetal grey ruthenium, are suitably industrial, with an open heart exposing the calibre 4035B’s 36,000 vph tourbillon.

Ceramic case and 36,000 vph tourbillon movement

The 4035 is a staple of the Zenith arsenal, with the ‘B’ presumably denoting the blackness of this new variant, with its off-kilter tourbillon nudging the case size to 45mm in diameter and 14.6mm thick. Lume is also intensely black, perhaps making legibility an issue on this generally shadowy design.

Proportions remain elegant and finishes look to be the same high standard as usual, so it’s likely that any concerns about the direction of the company are unfounded. If the Intense Black looks like your kind of watch, you’re sure to be treated to a fantastic piece of horology; if not, then Zenith still offers the same classic pieces it’s famous for.