Rolex Datejust 16233

Clocks and watches were used, are used and always will be used to display the never-ending movement of time. But say you're an avid fan at the 1821 races and you need to know precisely how long it is between the horses leaving the start line and crossing the finish line, what then? Oh, and you're Louis XVIII, King of France, too. I'll tell you what you do. You commission the invention of the chronograph.

It doesn't require a huge knowledge of watches to know that vintage Submariners are a popular place to put money. The hardy little dive watch has served Rolex well since its inauguration in the early 1950s, building a loyal following that has almost become something of a cult. Collectors argue over the merest details: fonts, logos, and even manufacturing defects being among the points of contention that drive arguments - and prices - sky high.

Back in 1972, Audemars Piguet did the unthinkable: they sold a steel watch with an out-there design for ten times the price of the Rolex Submariner. The gambit paid off, and that watch evolved into the Royal Oak Offshore, one of the most sought-after timepieces of the financial elite. A popular variant is the Rubber Clad, distinguishable by its rubber bezel.

From the great ancient Chinese and Arabic thinkers, to a cottage industry that transformed the fortunes of a post-reform Switzerland, watchmaking has transcended the development of technology like no other industry. With sales of premium Swiss watches increasing year on year, it's a trade that competes on a global scale, with 28.6 million units worth a staggering £13.8 billion leaving the landlocked confederation in 2014. It stands to reason then that the turnover of skilled watchmakers is following a similar boom, but the truth is contrary—the number of trained watchmakers has dropped by as much as 95% since the watchmaking heyday of the 1950s. It's a troubling time for the global watch industry, even if it remains unspoken, and something needs to be done. Tony Williams, former Breitling Head Watchmaker and current Watchfinder & Co. Head Watchmaker, talks watches, watchmaking and why we should all be more concerned about the quiet death of the skilled watchmaker.